Date: 17 Oct 1997
From: Jay Marin <jmarin@writeme.com>
To: BRINE-L@UGA.CC.UGA.EDU
QUESTION:
I bought some brine eggs from M'M as per recommendation of one
of the service members and they claim 90% hatch rate. They are right and the eggs hatched within 15/17 hours.
In some articles it indicates that you should clean the water at least
once every 3 days 20% of the water quantity. I'm using 2 liter bottles. How can you clean the water without spilling the brine shrimps? This question also applies for when it's time to take the empty shells out without spilling?
When feeding the brine shrimps, I'm using bread yeast and it seems that the water gets so milky that you think the brine shrimps will die. How much can you use to feed them and is it normal for the water
to remain milky?
Last question, when you have the air tube attached to keep the water
moving, so you keep the eggs in suspension at all times, do you turn the air off once they hatched or do you keep the air on all the time?
Jay
***************
COMMENTS 1:
Date: 18 Oct 1997
From: "Howard W. Newman" <BShrimp@aol.com>
To: BRINE-L@UGA.CC.UGA.EDU
I will start off with the assumption that you are raising the brine shrimp nauplii and you are not feeding them as soon as they hatch.
First, the easiest way to raise them is with green water. Take water of the same salinity that you are hatching at and add a small amount of plant fertilizer and place under continuous light such as an aquarium gro-lux light. The water will turn green quite quickly with algae. Aerate this gently. Prepare this before you hatch the Artemia cysts.
When you hatch your Artemia cysts, turn off the air and allow the empty shells to float while the nauplii will sink to the bottom. Carefully pour off the empty shells and than drain the nauplii into a net and rinse with cool, fresh water to remove hatching metabolites. Place the newly hatched nauplii into the container with the green water. This will solve your problem with the milky water from the yeast and prevent water quality problem from wiping out your hatch. The nauplii will be receiving a better diet and therefore will be more nutritious for your fish or ??
You can have several containers of green water available so that if the
nauplii "graze" the water clean you can add more. If you still continue with your yeast method I would suggest that you do not feed so much that you turn the water milky. Feed smaller amounts more often.
howard w. newman
***************
COMMENTS 2:
Date: 20 Oct 1997
From: Jay Marin <jmarin@writeme.com>
To: BRINE-L@UGA.CC.UGA.EDU
Thanks for the information, sounds interesting to grow them the way you are suggesting. The questions that I have now is, when you say that use some plant fertilizer, I do some Landscaping and I use different types of fertilizers for plants. Which one do you suggest? And then how long before the algae start forming?
Jay
***************
COMMENTS 3:
Date: 20 Oct 1997
From: Fliper <pec@tmc.astm.cmri.cmu.edu>
To: BRINE-L@UGA.CC.UGA.EDU
Copper is supposed to be very bad for invertebrates so I'd avoid any
fertilizers with copper sulfate... (though I don't know for sure if this form of copper is specifically bad for them, I wouldn't chance it)
I'd suggest manure. a little egg yolk, water from boiled rice/barley,
a little yeast, and liquified (blender) vegetable matter are all
helpful in small amounts.
How long before the algae start forming depends on the spores present. You can get a better microflora/fauna population by adding a cup of water from an established marine tank.
***************
COMMENTS 4:
Date: 20 Oct 1997
From: "Howard W. Newman" <BShrimp@aol.com>
To: BRINE-L@UGA.CC.UGA.EDU
I generally use Peters liquid plant food or Miracle Gro which is over the counter. The container that you add the fertilizer to will have to be illuminated 24 hours (preferably gro-lux plant light) and aerated. It should be green in one week. To boost the productivity you could order an algae starter culture from one of the biological supply houses and this could be a Dunaliella, Tetraselmis or Isochrysis sp.