ARTEMIA AND CONTROL OF ALGAL BLOOMS


Sent: December 14, 1999

From: Raúl Coyula <coyula@fbio.oc.uh.cu>
To: <Artemia-l@sparklist.com>

QUESTION:


How does Artemia control the algal blooms in saltworks if they are caused mainly by cyanobacteria that Artemia ingests but does not use?

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COMMENTS 1:

You make a very good point. If the cyanobacteria are particularly hard to digest such as Coccochloris sp. and the cell density is high, the filter-feeding Artemia will pass the cells undigested and you will accomplish nothing. Maybe a more practical approach is to identify the cyanobacteria and then decide if it can be easily digested by Artemia. If not, I would suggest proceeding to a plan that would introduce key elements to favor a bloom of diatoms...these products are available. However, if your feed water has high organic loading, then it may not be possible.

Howard W. Newman
Artemia task force div.
Inve aquaculture, Inc.

E-mail : BShrimp@aol.com

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COMMENTS 2 :

In a forward flow solar pond system Artemia ingest the diatoms and green planktonic algae of the preliminary ponds, resulting in clear, nutrient reduced water by the time the salinity increases to that where the cyanobacterial mats grow. It is particularly important to remove the
phosphates, as cyanobacteria are phosphate-limited (they fix their own
nitrogen). The low phosphate water supports only small quantities of
cyanobacteria, and the clear water allows light to penetrate to the floor,
encouraging the mats to make tight benthic mats. Where the water is turbid the mats grow loosely, up into the water column. The loose mats are very mucilaginous and wind mixing allows the mucilage to become incorporated into the brine. This impacts on the final crystallisation of salt, causing small, feathery and loose hollow crystals. It can actually halt production in extreme cases.

Peri Coleman
Delta Environmental Consulting
12 Beach Road
St Kilda SA 5110
Australia
E-mail: delta@adam.com.au
URL: http://www.adam.com.au/delta

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COMMENTS 3:

I would agree that Artemia do not directly reduce cyanobacteria
populations by grazing. Their main mechanism in reducing cyanobacteria are to tie up nutrients and clear the brine. Reactive nutrient concentration is the major factor in the growth of essentially opportunistic cyanobacteria growth, in particular PO4.  Brine clarification means a firmer bottom layer which reduces mixing between the acid nutrient rich anaerobic sediment and the photo
active zone. Not all cyanobacteria are detrimental to saltworks and they are not the bacteria directly that are responsible for quality reduction. The main culprits seem to be the single cell species from the Synecococcus (sp.?)/Aphanothece group. I have recorded quite high concentrations of this genus without an increase in brine viscosity, the major factor in poor quality crystals. In short, ecological balance and stability is the critical mechanism and of course Artemia is only a part of the story.

Mark Coleman

E-mail: actis@iinet.net.au

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COMMENTS 4 :

I keep brine shrimp for the purposes of teaching in schools and Colleges. I have small model ecosystems. They run well when the nutrient levels are low. I occasionally have cyanobacterial growths on the side of the tanks.
I know that these are adding atmospheric nitrogen to the ecosystem
(N-fixation). It is my belief that some of these algae are edible.  If
they are not they may be rapidly decayed and the released nitrogen comes that way into the algal (Chlamydomonads) population that then gives the shrimps their adequate protein needs.
Blue greens need not be bad news surely.

Stephen P.Tomkins
Director of Studies in Biological Sciences
Homerton College, Cambridge. CB2 2PH. UK
Tel:  01223  507174

E-mail: spt22@cus.cam.ac.uk

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COMMENTS 5:

I agree that blue-greens are not all "bad guys".  I have successfully
raised Artemia on dry Spirulina and Aphanizomenon flos-aquae and they were active, bright and vibrant animals.
Unfortunately, there are some species such as Microcystis that, when
decaying, release an enzyme (microcystin) that is a pretty potent liver toxin.
The effluent waters to many shrimp ponds are of low salinity and even
though Artemia can survive at low salinities most often predators of Artemia are present too, such as fish larvae, crab, corixidae.  Artemia survive and thrive in high salinities without predators and probably would not be able to multiply before being consumed.

Howard W. Newman
Artemia task force div.
Inve aquaculture, Inc.

E-mail : BShrimp@aol.com

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COMMENTS 6:

Although I am not really a phytoplankton man, I'd like to summarize some of our findings here in Vietnam.
The systems in Vietnam are small shallow (30 to 50 cm) pond systems (ponds of 0.5 to 2 ha) run as batch cultures (each pond contains one Artemia population and is run as a separate unit). Ponds are fed mainly green water, cultured in separate fertilization ponds (sometimes these are the intake canals), and organic waste products. Ponds are stocked high (60 to 100 animals/litre) and at this moment cysts are the primary objective. As Vietnam has a monsoon season, systems are also seasonal. In the wet season Artemia disappear and ponds are used for fish or shrimp culture.

1) Can Artemia remove blue-green algae from the water column ?

I would say yes, as long as Artemia can ingest them. Artemia is a non-selective filterfeeder = eats everything which comes his way. What has been ingested is nicely packed into a faecal pellet, which sinks to the bottom (I do not really understand the remark of Marc Coleman as would Artemia act as nutrient captures ? You mean as captures of organic matter ?). But if removing algae from the water is your goal you should not work with nauplii, as they have a very inefficient feeding system. Juveniles and adults are much more appropriate. This implies you first have to grow your animals in a separate pond. Although such a procedure to get rid of algae might sound a bit complex, it can be done and it has been done. The only thing you
should take into account are the costs.
Unfortunately, there are some blue-green algae which are ingested, packed and if the faecal pellet is opened come out and swim away (Cocochloris). Also if the algae can not be ingested by the brine shrimp, brine shrimp can not remove them. This is i.e. the case for a number of blue-green filamentous algae.

2) Are blue-green algae bad news ?
For salt production not necessarily as other people already pointed out.
They help to seal your bottom and might even enhance heat absorption (trouble of course starts if you disrupt your pond ecosystem and these mats start to float ! I think though most salt managers will know how to keep their pond system stable).

As for Artemia, I tend to believe blue-green are bad news indeed. As already pointed out by Howard, some are toxic, others can not be ingested, still others can not be digested. In certain circumstances they even start clogging the digestive system of the Artemia (very common with the filamentous ones which start appearing once rains start) after which the Artemia population collapses. As for the grazing of benthic mats or algae on glass walls, you indeed often see Artemia "graze" = wave their thoracopods above such growths. However, did anybody check if the Artemia are actually ingesting parts of these algae or are the animals just taking detritus sticking to these mats ? Also, if ingested, is the stuff digested (you can check this easily in the faecal pellets)? I never really looked at this (so please comment), but I know for a fact algae mats are not enough to keep your populations healthy. Furthermore they are nutrient sinks = take away all the nutrients needed by the good micro algae. Finally they are really difficult to clean out your cysts.
In this respect it is important to manage your algae populations properly to maintain high concentrations of green algae (Dunaliella, Chlamydomonas, Tetraselmis) and small diatoms (Chaetoceros). This can be done via manipulation of the N:P balance with inorganic fertilizers (as many people already pointed out, high P-levels tend to stimulate the blue-greens as they can fix nitrogen from the air). But other factors such as turn-over rate of water in your fertilization ponds, intake water, solubility of phosphor/nitrogen, water circulation, salinity (blue-greens tend to become a problem rather at lower than at higher salinities), shading, temperature, pond bottom (as a nutrient sink and nutrient source) all do interfere with this process.
Also, putting high N concentrations is nice, but if you start stimulating
the large diatoms (often the case once the blooms become dense; at that time the green algae are replaced by diatoms) you also are in trouble as Artemia can not ingest these (ie Navicula, Nitzchia, Pleurosigma etc.) and you basically starve your population.
In short you should manage your pond in such a way that you get a lot of green algae (but not too much, as you will start running in other types of problems if you do that) some small diatoms (to get the HUFA levels high in your cysts) and as little blue-green as possible. The way to do this requires that you understand your pond ecosystem (cf. bottom-water interactions and biological community) as working with one set of rules, might prove excellent in pond "A" but near disaster in pond "B", although in both ponds the same principles apply.
For us to know which is the best strategy in your pond requires a basic
amount of back-ground information about your ponds. This type of
information always seems to be lacking on discussion lists. So, may I invite the people who post a question to include a short description of their pond or tank system as there is no such thing as "a standardized Artemia" or "a universal pond" or "a good-for all-purposes tank" ?

Peter Baert

E-mail: bpeter@hcm.vnn.vn

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COMMENTS 7 :

More on Artemia and their benthic grazing habits: a recent International Journal of Salt Lake Research paper (1998, Vol. 7(1)) (online at Kluwer Academic publishers) examined benthic grazing by Artemia as a behavioural modification, at Lake Hayward in Western Australia. The researchers discovered (by observation in glass aquaria) that the Artemia were brushing diatoms free from the surface of the mat and then ingesting them.
This behaviour can be observed at Pink Lake in SA, where the intake water is phosphate-rich and nitrate-deficient. There are few planktonic algal species, but a dense mat of cyanobacteria coating the entire benthic surface of the lake. Growing on the surface of this mat, partially embedded in the mucilage, are diatoms. They give the mat a lovely golden colour. The Artemia actually "latch on" to the mat with their reproductive claspers and brush the surface to release the diatoms. Where rocks are present in the lake the Artemia look like a fuzzy hairdo all over the rock. An interesting observation is the amount of fine mud that must also be embedded in the algal mats - where the Artemia are attached to the rocks there is a halo of fecal pellets, which are coloured distinctively with the local mud. This is very obvious against the uniform gold of the benthic mat surface.

Peri Coleman
Delta Environmental Consulting
12 Beach Road
St Kilda SA 5110
Australia
E-mail: delta@adam.com.au
URL: http://www.adam.com.au/delta

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COMMENTS 8:

I repeat that we are aiming at maximizing cyst production here in Vietnam. Trying to maintain your populations with benthic algae is in that respect not to be recommended. But no doubt, you can maintain natural populations that way (often is the case in large permanent salt works too), be it I suspect your cyst yields will not be extra-ordinary (low number of females and often lot of ovoviviparity).

PS : I also saw the message of Howard concerning reduced feeding rates and slower growth of Artemia in higher salinity. Probably the fact that more energy has to be redirected to maintain a proper osmotic balance also explains the smaller size of your animals. If temperatures are high and your animals very red, you can add respiration problems to the list.

Peter Baert

E-mail: BPETER@HCM.VNN.VN

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